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#1
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I have been given a patched landing gear. The weld looked like
bubblegum had been stuck to it and there were little pits where any metal that had flowed, didn't flow around that impurity. I asked my A&P if the embedded impurities hadn't been an issue, could I simply remelt the joint and cause it to flow into the base metal? He replied because there was so much 'joint' there, heating it up to molten could cause more harm. He recommended I grind as much of the old weld off as possible. I have an angle grinder and a grinder wheel for it. I can get to the weld, but even if I jig the work, it's going to be awkward to grind with this tool. Anyone have any suggestions how this might be made to go smoother? - MikeH |
#2
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On Jul 5, 6:23 am, mhorowit wrote:
Anyone have any suggestions how this might be made to go smoother? - ---------------------------------------------------- Wellll.... no. :-) Oh, there's lotsa stuff you can try... if your angle-head grinder has a blade-guard, remove it. Yeah, I know... but OSHA doesn't have a lot to do with Reality. Instead, get into the habit of WEARING your protection. Good LEXAN lenses that wrap around your I-balls PLUS a full-face shield & ear muffs. GOOD gloves, tough yet supple (cheap ones are usually one or the other). Lotsa leather, right down to your toes. Hot & greasy but a little fore-thought can keep you working long after the amateurs have set themselves on fire, blown themselves up and gone home in disgust. (Nasty job, welding. Second worst in the world. [Sand-blasting is First.]) You might also consider getting yourself a couple MORE angle-head grinders, the cheapies from Harbor Freight. You want a narrow disk on one, a thick disk on the other. Over on the THIRD one you want a coarse flapper wheel. Cutting away a sloppy weld, always made by someone else of course :-) ...you use the thin wheel to get into the corners, the thick one to get those chunks offa there, the flapper to polish things up. What you are in the process of Discovering is that 'Welding' with the quotes is about 95% basic metal working and mebbe 5% spent with a torch in your hand, if you're lucky. The grinding, fitting and shaping of the metal TO BE welded is the real chore, not only for initial fabrication but for all manner of repair work, be it airframes or a flight-deck elevator. Once you have the disaster cleaned-up to shop-class conditions THEN you get to don your Magic Goggles and play Thor. Kinda funny the way all the manuals and those $500 seminars seem to focus on just 5% of the task, prolly because they're trying to get you buy something. The 95% that you need in order to make the 5% USEFUL is mostly experience and elbow-grease and the last I heard, both were pretty hard to find in a vending machine. But you're on the right track. An angle-head grinder is pretty much the Maid-of-all-Chores in a welding shop, where good ones are worth the money. But if you're only building a single airplane it's less expensive to simply buy half a dozen of the cheap imports and throw them away when the bearings give out, which they will quick like a bunny. However, if you'd like to make them last longer than a fortnight, take the thing apart and tap the gear housing to accept a small (1/16-NPT) Zerk fitting. Pack the gear box with high-pressure MOLY grease as used for CV joints, and give it a shot of lube when it starts getting noisy. I've had some last as long as a year(!) (Of course, my Makita, purchased about 1995, is still going strong...) Nice thing about a steel-tube fuselage is that you can keep it flying long after most folks give up on wood or aluminum. (I worked on a Cassutt fuselage that had been repaired so many times the only thing left of the original was an itty-bitty piece of tubing in the tail. Then the new owner decided to practice his Ground Loop...) -R.S.Hoover |
#3
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On Jul 5, 10:19 am, " wrote:
On Jul 5, 6:23 am, mhorowit wrote: Anyone have any suggestions how this might be made to go smoother? - ---------------------------------------------------- Wellll.... no. :-) -R.S.Hoover Hey Bob - good to hear from you. Sometimes "things" just fall into place and I get such a smooth seam I just amaze myself; othertimes (as they say in the UK) it looks like dog's breakfast. The good news is that I can recognize when things arn't going right and I stop. - MikeH |
#4
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mhorowit wrote:
On Jul 5, 10:19 am, " wrote: On Jul 5, 6:23 am, mhorowit wrote: Anyone have any suggestions how this might be made to go smoother? - ---------------------------------------------------- Wellll.... no. :-) -R.S.Hoover Hey Bob - good to hear from you. Sometimes "things" just fall into place and I get such a smooth seam I just amaze myself; othertimes (as they say in the UK) it looks like dog's breakfast. The good news is that I can recognize when things arn't going right and I stop. - MikeH My welding improved tremendously when I bought a pair of maximum strength reading glasses, way stronger than I need normally. Being able to see the weld really close makes a huge difference. I can spot the potential defects as they're forming and prevent them. John |
#5
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![]() "mhorowit" wrote in message oups.com... I have been given a patched landing gear. The weld looked like bubblegum had been stuck to it and there were little pits where any metal that had flowed, didn't flow around that impurity. I asked my A&P if the embedded impurities hadn't been an issue, could I simply remelt the joint and cause it to flow into the base metal? He replied because there was so much 'joint' there, heating it up to molten could cause more harm. He recommended I grind as much of the old weld off as possible. I have an angle grinder and a grinder wheel for it. I can get to the weld, but even if I jig the work, it's going to be awkward to grind with this tool. Anyone have any suggestions how this might be made to go smoother? - You might try a die grinder, with an angle grinder cutting wheel fit onto it, if the angle part of the angle grinder is getting in the way. g -- Jim in NC |
#6
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Morgans wrote:
"mhorowit" wrote in message oups.com... I have been given a patched landing gear. The weld looked like bubblegum had been stuck to it and there were little pits where any metal that had flowed, didn't flow around that impurity. I asked my A&P if the embedded impurities hadn't been an issue, could I simply remelt the joint and cause it to flow into the base metal? He replied because there was so much 'joint' there, heating it up to molten could cause more harm. He recommended I grind as much of the old weld off as possible. I have an angle grinder and a grinder wheel for it. I can get to the weld, but even if I jig the work, it's going to be awkward to grind with this tool. Anyone have any suggestions how this might be made to go smoother? - You might try a die grinder, with an angle grinder cutting wheel fit onto it, if the angle part of the angle grinder is getting in the way. g I've stuck larger cutoff wheels on my angle grinder to get deep in some corners. Scary as hell, but it did what I needed. |
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