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#1
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I have a 1978 C182 Q. I recently experienced my alternator turning off and the
high voltage light coming on. I cycled the switch (1/2 master) and got it to reset every time, however, the interval between episodes varied. I had the Voltage Regulator and the Alternator replaced (new) and flew a couple of flights since with no problem... until my last flight. Last flight it happened again. The Alternator switched off and the high voltage light came on. I cycled the switch and it reset. What else is causing this? Is it a bad switch? Loose connection at the bus? Has anyone else experienced this and what was your solution? Any feedback is appreciated. K C PP ASEL IA N759JB |
#2
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WinstonCup wrote:
I have a 1978 C182 Q. I recently experienced my alternator turning off and the high voltage light coming on. I cycled the switch (1/2 master) and got it to reset every time, however, the interval between episodes varied. I had the Voltage Regulator and the Alternator replaced (new) and flew a couple of flights since with no problem... until my last flight. Last flight it happened again. The Alternator switched off and the high voltage light came on. I cycled the switch and it reset. What else is causing this? Is it a bad switch? Loose connection at the bus? I had loose ground connections under the panel and on the breaker buss... Has anyone else experienced this and what was your solution? Tighened the above and replaced the battery - it was weak and wouldn't turn over the engine if it didn't crank almost immediately... Any feedback is appreciated. I'm good at that... |
#3
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I have found several cases where the 60 amp alt breaker would get old
and tired and not "trip" but would cause an intermittent open. This will spike the electrical system and cause a over voltage trip. Also an old electrolytic cap across the over voltage relay input will not filter out the normal buss spikes and cause a false trip. Here are the top problem areas that I have seen: #1 Bonding ground strap from the engine case to the airframe ,or engine mount, has high resistance due to corrosion. (This one almost killed me one day, and would have too if I had pulled the gear up before the flaps on a go around.) #2 Intermittent master switch or alternator switch half on Cessna’s. #3 Old dried out voltage spike suppresser capacitor across the over voltage relay on Cessna’s. #4 Stainless steel washer between the battery cable terminal and the battery post. It is OK if it is under the wing nut but is not OK if it is between the terminal and the battery post. #5 Worn out high resistance 60 amp alternator circuit breaker. #6 Loose connections to the amp meter or inside the amp meter or both. Generally tightening the terminals will fix the problem. #7 Worn out master relay. There is a quick safe way to test the resistance of each connection without the engine running and it only requires a 12 or 24 ohm 50 watt or bigger power resistor and a digital volt meter. The method used is called "Kelvin 4 wire resistance measurement" By using an independent current source and voltmeter that can read voltages to at least one millivolt , you can measure the milliohms in each connection while you bang on , tap or move the wiring or part. This will uncover many vibration induced problems in a controlled method. You are now looking for millivolt CHANGES in voltage across the part as the part is moved or the wiring is moved. What you do is induce about a one amp current in the wiring chain that you want to test with the aircraft’s battery and the 12 ohm (24 ohm for 24 volts) resistor. One amp is used because it makes the math easy, one millivolt drop is equal to one milliohm of resistance (V=IR). With the one amp flowing through what you want to measure use the voltmeter to measure the voltage across the part or wire segment. In this way you can measure directly the resistance of each crimp connection for each terminal and each connection of the terminal to the stud and also the resistance of each wire segment or you can read the resistance or the whole circuit that may contain several items in series. As an example connect the resistor between the battery terminal of the alternator and the alternator case and turn on the aircraft master power relay. Measure the voltage from the alternator case to the engine, from the engine to the airframe and from the airframe to the battery negative terminal. Remember whatever voltage that you measure will be 50 times greater if you have a 50 amp alternator while the alternator is fully charging. The power dissipated in each connection is the resistance times the current squared. For 0.1 ohms at 50 amps the power in the 0.1 ohm resistance would be 250 watts and the voltage drop would be 5 volts. As strange as it appears I found one cessna that kept tripping the over voltage that was caused by someone who had clear coated the alternator rear case half and the ground stud did not make good contact from the alternator diode stack to the case at all times. This allowed the suppression cap to charge up to 90 volts or more then discharge to ground which induced a big voltage spike on the alternator wiring. John On 10 Nov 2004 22:18:14 GMT, (WinstonCup) wrote: I have a 1978 C182 Q. I recently experienced my alternator turning off and the high voltage light coming on. I cycled the switch (1/2 master) and got it to reset every time, however, the interval between episodes varied. I had the Voltage Regulator and the Alternator replaced (new) and flew a couple of flights since with no problem... until my last flight. Last flight it happened again. The Alternator switched off and the high voltage light came on. I cycled the switch and it reset. What else is causing this? Is it a bad switch? Loose connection at the bus? Has anyone else experienced this and what was your solution? Any feedback is appreciated. K C PP ASEL IA N759JB |
#4
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Well, I can tell you what it usually is. I use to have a Cessna shop back
in Michigan and most of the time this was cause by the failure of the overvoltage protection relay. In fact Cessna has a service letter on it that requires you to place a capacitor in line with it because this relay has a tendency to kick off too easily as it gets older. I don't recall what year Cessna incorporated it into manufacturing but it was in the early 70's. It shows up the way you described, occasionally at first and then more often until finally you won't be able to recycle it back on. I had to replace one on my 172 last year, same symptoms. It's located in the wire bundle behind the CB panel on the pilots side on most models. A cylinder about 3-4 inches long, 1 inch in diameter with 3 wires. You can get them from Cessna or for less money under STC from Chief and other suppliers. They're listed on their web site. "WinstonCup" wrote in message ... I have a 1978 C182 Q. I recently experienced my alternator turning off and the high voltage light coming on. I cycled the switch (1/2 master) and got it to reset every time, however, the interval between episodes varied. I had the Voltage Regulator and the Alternator replaced (new) and flew a couple of flights since with no problem... until my last flight. Last flight it happened again. The Alternator switched off and the high voltage light came on. I cycled the switch and it reset. What else is causing this? Is it a bad switch? Loose connection at the bus? Has anyone else experienced this and what was your solution? Any feedback is appreciated. K C PP ASEL IA N759JB |
#5
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"bill" wrote in message . com...
Well, I can tell you what it usually is. I use to have a Cessna shop back in Michigan and most of the time this was cause by the failure of the overvoltage protection relay. In fact Cessna has a service letter on it that requires you to place a capacitor in line with it because this relay has a tendency to kick off too easily as it gets older. I don't recall what year Cessna incorporated it into manufacturing but it was in the early 70's. It shows up the way you described, occasionally at first and then more often until finally you won't be able to recycle it back on. I had to replace one on my 172 last year, same symptoms. It's located in the wire bundle behind the CB panel on the pilots side on most models. A cylinder about 3-4 inches long, 1 inch in diameter with 3 wires. You can get them from Cessna or for less money under STC from Chief and other suppliers. They're listed on their web site. A bad grounding of the ground lead from the overvoltage relay can cause the same problem. They're often connected to the park brake bracket, which gets pulled and flexed and thngs eventually come loose. Dan |
#6
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![]() "WinstonCup" wrote in message ... I have a 1978 C182 Q. I recently experienced my alternator turning off and the high voltage light coming on. I cycled the switch (1/2 master) and got it to reset every time, however, the interval between episodes varied. I had the Voltage Regulator and the Alternator replaced (new) and flew a couple of flights since with no problem... until my last flight. Last flight it happened again. The Alternator switched off and the high voltage light came on. I cycled the switch and it reset. What else is causing this? Is it a bad switch? Loose connection at the bus? Has anyone else experienced this and what was your solution? Any feedback is appreciated. We had some problems in this area with our C210. There is EXCELLENT diagnostic information readily available at www.zeftronics.com. (once you figure out exactly which "type" you have). Our "main problem" was a failed alternator (capacitor flopping around inside), but in the process we got rid of a voltage drop across a circuit breaker connection and/or master switch which had been causing our ammeter to "pulse" for as long as we've owned the plane... Good luck! John Clonts Temple, Texas N7NZ |
#7
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I, too, have just had the high voltage light coming on on my 1973 Cessna
172. Recycling the Batt half switch didn't reset the light. So a mechanic is coming Saturday to check it out. I got my service manual out and it said that the causes could be a defective overvoltage sensor, a defective regulator, defective master switch, or associated wiring. Doesn't necessarily mean the alternator is bad. This happened to my C-182 back in the early 80s and it was due to a defective stator wire in the alternator. Tom Cummings "John Clonts" wrote in message ... "WinstonCup" wrote in message ... I have a 1978 C182 Q. I recently experienced my alternator turning off and the high voltage light coming on. I cycled the switch (1/2 master) and got it to reset every time, however, the interval between episodes varied. I had the Voltage Regulator and the Alternator replaced (new) and flew a couple of flights since with no problem... until my last flight. Last flight it happened again. The Alternator switched off and the high voltage light came on. I cycled the switch and it reset. What else is causing this? Is it a bad switch? Loose connection at the bus? Has anyone else experienced this and what was your solution? Any feedback is appreciated. We had some problems in this area with our C210. There is EXCELLENT diagnostic information readily available at www.zeftronics.com. (once you figure out exactly which "type" you have). Our "main problem" was a failed alternator (capacitor flopping around inside), but in the process we got rid of a voltage drop across a circuit breaker connection and/or master switch which had been causing our ammeter to "pulse" for as long as we've owned the plane... Good luck! John Clonts Temple, Texas N7NZ |
#8
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#9
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"bill" wrote in message . com...
Well, I can tell you what it usually is. I use to have a Cessna shop back in Michigan and most of the time this was cause by the failure of the overvoltage protection relay. In fact Cessna has a service letter on it that requires you to place a capacitor in line with it because this relay has a tendency to kick off too easily as it gets older. I don't recall what year Cessna incorporated it into manufacturing but it was in the early 70's. ............................................ I had the same thing happen on my C172M. Replaced the OV sensor with a Zeftronics unit. The old one was tripping out at very little overvoltage - like 15.5 V as I recall. I had to use a scope to figure out what was happening. John F (earlier post) is your next approach. He knows what he is talking about. |
#10
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THANKS TO ALL THAT POSTED!!!
I have printed each response and will take this with me to the service shop. K C |
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