Come see us at Oshkosh

In rec.aviation.piloting wrote:
On Jul 12, 1:29 pm, "Morgans" wrote:
wrote

Try clicking on your page in the sig. It only brings up a page
with no links, at least in mine

The links are in the upper right hand corner of the page...

IMHO it would be better to have a big notice about the product on the
very first page. It can be a link to the detail page, but it needs to
be on the first page your potential customers see.

If you go down to the Chevy dealer, most of the new cars are parked out
front and the ones that are inside are behind big glass windows. They
don't ask you to come inside the front door into a room with just a
sign on the wall saying "Welcome to Acme Chevrolet", and _then_ go
through another door into a windowless room where the new cars are
sitting.

The press release should be on the Web page (in HTML) as well as in PDF.
Again, don't make people do extra work to find out about your product.

The photo of the light by itself is natively 587x373, but is being
scaled in the HTML to 587x464, which makes the light appear "stretched"
vertically. It also makes the photo a little more blocky or pixellated
than it otherwise might be. Things with reflectors are somewhat
difficult to take pictures of, but if you reshoot, consider putting the
light on a piece of white paper (to remove all distractions from the
background), lighting it from multiple angles to reduce shadows, and
turning off the camera flash.

The photo of the light as installed on the Kitfox is set in the HTML at
its native resolution, so that photo isn't distorted.

I think the installation instructions for the light would benefit from a
typical wiring diagram for both one and two light installations, and a
view of the connector with pin numbers. You should also give directions
on what to do with the master and slave wires that are unused (tape
off/insulate, most likely). This gets into the specifics of how it
installs on a particular plane, but you may also consider installing the
light half of the Molex connector at the factory, and possibly even
providing the harness half of the connector installed on a 12" or so
pigtail. Otherwise, the purchaser has to deal with crimping Molex pins,
which nobody has the right crimper for. If you are going to supply the
pins loose piece, give 'em six or seven of each, so they can screw up
once or twice.

The installation instructions also suffer from typical Microsoft Turd
paragraph indent problems in the ten installation steps and in part
1.0 of the Specifications. Also, part 1.0 should say "LEDs" (plural)
instead of "LED's" (possessive). Should part 3.4 say "Lightning"
instead of "Lighting"?

I don't quite understand section 3.5 of the specifications. I know what
the difference between positive and negative ground is, but it's not
clear whether the red and yellow wires always have to be more positive
than the black wire, or if it doesn't matter. Put another way, if you
have something like

resistor LED
red wire ---/\/\/------||--- black wire

then the red wire always has to be more positive than the black wire,
whereas if you have something like

bridge resistor LED
red wire ---+---||---+------/\/\/------||---,
| | |
'---||-----, |
| | |
,---||---' | |
| | |
black wire ---+---||-----+---------------------'

then it doesn't matter how the red and black wires are hooked up. (Yes,
I do realize that what's inside your light is a more complicated than a
resistor and an LED!)

I realize the big show is over, but an interesting demo might be to
mount one of your lights and a plain old incandescent lamp on a paint
shaker, or an electric motor with an offset weight on the shaft, or a
lawnmower engine - something that vibrates. Hook both lights to a
battery with very simple and visible wiring, to show that there's
nothing funny going on. Then turn on the shaker and see which one burns
out first. It's not as impressive as seeing it in person, but a
video of such a demo might be useful. Again, this is hard to
photograph, and it's not as good as seeing it in person, but you could
also put one of your lights on one wing, a regular lamp on the other
wing, turn them both on, and take a photo (no flash) from the cockpit
to illustrate the difference. Depending on how the lights are aimed,
it might help to have the plane pointing at the wall of a hangar, or
a known distance from a stripe on the pavement, to illustrate the
difference.

Matt Roberds

wrote in message
...

very long, yet extremely informative post snipped

I find the contrast between the reception of this product, and Wayne's
wingspam.com interesting. Both are trying to make a living selling to
pilots, however one has chosen to simply spam and run, while the other is
properly using this forum to both inform and generate interest in his
product.

Dean, I wish you the best with your product.

Wayne, I wish you would stop spamming us.

Matt,

IMHO it would be better to have a big notice about the product on the
very first page. It can be a link to the detail page, but it needs to
be on the first page your potential customers see.


Good point, I did that...

The press release should be on the Web page (in HTML) as well as in PDF.
Again, don't make people do extra work to find out about your product.


I will do this...

The photo of the light by itself is natively 587x373, but is being
scaled in the HTML to 587x464, which makes the light appear "stretched"
vertically. It also makes the photo a little more blocky or pixellated
than it otherwise might be. Things with reflectors are somewhat
difficult to take pictures of, but if you reshoot, consider putting the
light on a piece of white paper (to remove all distractions from the
background), lighting it from multiple angles to reduce shadows, and
turning off the camera flash.


We didn't have a lot of time to get professional photos of the product
leading up to Oshkosh. We have more time now to do that, so we will
be putting much better photos on the site soon...

I think the installation instructions for the light would benefit from a
typical wiring diagram for both one and two light installations, and a
view of the connector with pin numbers. You should also give directions
on what to do with the master and slave wires that are unused (tape
off/insulate, most likely). This gets into the specifics of how it
installs on a particular plane, but you may also consider installing the
light half of the Molex connector at the factory, and possibly even
providing the harness half of the connector installed on a 12" or so
pigtail. Otherwise, the purchaser has to deal with crimping Molex pins,
which nobody has the right crimper for. If you are going to supply the
pins loose piece, give 'em six or seven of each, so they can screw up
once or twice.


Good points, and we do provide an extra pin for each connector...

The installation instructions also suffer from typical Microsoft Turd
paragraph indent problems in the ten installation steps and in part
1.0 of the Specifications. Also, part 1.0 should say "LEDs" (plural)
instead of "LED's" (possessive). Should part 3.4 say "Lightning"
instead of "Lighting"?


Thanks, I'll fix that.

I don't quite understand section 3.5 of the specifications. I know what
the difference between positive and negative ground is, but it's not
clear whether the red and yellow wires always have to be more positive
than the black wire, or if it doesn't matter. Put another way, if you
have something like

resistor LED
red wire ---/\/\/------||--- black wire

then the red wire always has to be more positive than the black wire,
whereas if you have something like

bridge resistor LED
red wire ---+---||---+------/\/\/------||---,
| | |
'---||-----, |
| | |
,---||---' | |
| | |
black wire ---+---||-----+---------------------'

then it doesn't matter how the red and black wires are hooked up. (Yes,
I do realize that what's inside your light is a more complicated than a
resistor and an LED!)


The design is reverse polarity protected, but we do require that
ground and power be hooked up correctly to function. A full-wave
bridge adds another diode drop and cost, both of which are not
desireable.

Power to the red wire gives full-on operation. Power to the yellow
wire gives flashing operation, regardless of the state of the red
wire.

I realize the big show is over, but an interesting demo might be to
mount one of your lights and a plain old incandescent lamp on a paint
shaker, or an electric motor with an offset weight on the shaft, or a
lawnmower engine - something that vibrates. Hook both lights to a
battery with very simple and visible wiring, to show that there's
nothing funny going on. Then turn on the shaker and see which one burns
out first. It's not as impressive as seeing it in person, but a
video of such a demo might be useful. Again, this is hard to
photograph, and it's not as good as seeing it in person, but you could
also put one of your lights on one wing, a regular lamp on the other
wing, turn them both on, and take a photo (no flash) from the cockpit
to illustrate the difference. Depending on how the lights are aimed,
it might help to have the plane pointing at the wall of a hangar, or
a known distance from a stripe on the pavement, to illustrate the
difference.


We did have a show-down on Saturday night with an RV-7 that had
Duckworks leading edge halogens with a wig-wag controller. Our
lights were much brighter, lit a much larger area, and we could leave
them on for much much longer than the RV dared.

I like your idea about the paint shaker.

Dean Wilkinson
AeroLEDs LLC
www.aeroleds.com

wrote in message

We didn't have a lot of time to get professional photos of the product
leading up to Oshkosh. We have more time now to do that, so we will
be putting much better photos on the site soon...

I would love for you to have a "show down" on your web page, with
comparisons of your light vs. a couple other lights.

It would be good to see it from two views; from looking into the different
lights, and looking at the light shining onto a wall, or a taxiway.

If I were in the market for such a product, I would be convinced about them
increasing your visibility from other planes looking for you. I would be
skeptical about how well it would throw the light on the ground, for use as
a landing or taxi light. That is the thing I would need to be convinced
about.

You would need to have a picture with both types in the same frame, to make
it less likely to the observer that "tricks" have been used to skew the
results.

Neat product. Keep up the product development!
--
Jim in NC