Ventus 2cx brake

On Nov 25, 8:58*pm, bildan wrote:
On Nov 25, 9:33*pm, BravoCharlie
wrote:





Hi Pilots,

I have a V2cxT that has the standard S-H disc brake that no longer
works very well. *I have been through the obvious fixes; pads, new
fluid, bleed, etc. and haven't been able to bring it back up to
original performance which was adequate but not stellar.

I know a number of pilots have complained about this world-wide and S-
H has issued a voluntary TN. *The fix is to basically throw the old
stuff away and replace everything including wheel and tire with the
French-made Beringer system. *Beringer makes performance brake systems
for motorcycles, aircraft, etc. *It is not cheap and probably not an
easy install.

Does any one have first hand knowledge about this fix? *How easy is it
to install and what are the performance gains? *I hate to lay out the
cash without an understanding of how much of an improvement I will
see.

Let me know, thanks.

Bob

Better idea. *Remove the Tost wheel and brake and send them to Vintage
Brake (www.vintagebrake.com) in Sonora, California for a rebuild (~
$150). *After three years, my Nimbus 2C still has powerful brakes.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I had a scored disc from a off-field landing where sand was forced in
between the disc and pads. After I used the brakes a couple of times
the sand gouged up both the disc and pads, then the brakes didn't work
as well. I also found that when pulling hard on the spoiler handle, my
spoilers were hitting their stops (full open stop) and this bacame the
limiting factor in brake application. A couple of turns on the
pushrod end that fed the master cylinder, fixed the problem. Make sure
your brake is full on, well before the spoilers hit their stops (if
your brake is on the spoiler handle).
Roger on the Vintage Brake guys,
JJ
JJ

On Nov 26, 6:55*am, JJ Sinclair wrote:
On Nov 25, 8:58*pm, bildan wrote:



On Nov 25, 9:33*pm, BravoCharlie
wrote:

Hi Pilots,

I have a V2cxT that has the standard S-H disc brake that no longer
works very well. *I have been through the obvious fixes; pads, new
fluid, bleed, etc. and haven't been able to bring it back up to
original performance which was adequate but not stellar.

I know a number of pilots have complained about this world-wide and S-
H has issued a voluntary TN. *The fix is to basically throw the old
stuff away and replace everything including wheel and tire with the
French-made Beringer system. *Beringer makes performance brake systems
for motorcycles, aircraft, etc. *It is not cheap and probably not an
easy install.

Does any one have first hand knowledge about this fix? *How easy is it
to install and what are the performance gains? *I hate to lay out the
cash without an understanding of how much of an improvement I will
see.

Let me know, thanks.

Bob

Better idea. *Remove the Tost wheel and brake and send them to Vintage
Brake (www.vintagebrake.com) in Sonora, California for a rebuild (~
$150). *After three years, my Nimbus 2C still has powerful brakes.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

*I had a scored disc from a off-field landing where sand was forced in
between the disc and pads. After I used the brakes a couple of times
the sand gouged up both the disc and pads, then the brakes didn't work
as well. I also found that when pulling hard on the spoiler handle, my
spoilers were hitting their stops (full open stop) and this bacame the
limiting factor in brake application. *A couple of turns on the
pushrod end that fed the master cylinder, fixed the problem. Make sure
your brake is full on, well before the spoilers hit their stops (if
your brake is on the spoiler handle).
Roger on the Vintage Brake guys,
JJ
JJ

As Dave noted my actuator is a lever on the stick which is wimpy
compared to the spoiler handle. Dave what do you suggest for a
replacement Bowden cable? This one looks like a bicycle system and
not even as beefy as a motorcycle version.

Mine is adjusted fine but I might be losing some effectiveness with
cable stretch and/or housing give. The adjuster is just the cable
clamp nut. I have also heard the suggestion to replace the plastic
brake fluid line with braided stainless. Any thoughts about that?

On Nov 26, 10:54*am, BravoCharlie
wrote:
On Nov 26, 6:55*am, JJ Sinclair wrote:



On Nov 25, 8:58*pm, bildan wrote:

On Nov 25, 9:33*pm, BravoCharlie
wrote:

Hi Pilots,

I have a V2cxT that has the standard S-H disc brake that no longer
works very well. *I have been through the obvious fixes; pads, new
fluid, bleed, etc. and haven't been able to bring it back up to
original performance which was adequate but not stellar.

I know a number of pilots have complained about this world-wide and S-
H has issued a voluntary TN. *The fix is to basically throw the old
stuff away and replace everything including wheel and tire with the
French-made Beringer system. *Beringer makes performance brake systems
for motorcycles, aircraft, etc. *It is not cheap and probably not an
easy install.

Does any one have first hand knowledge about this fix? *How easy is it
to install and what are the performance gains? *I hate to lay out the
cash without an understanding of how much of an improvement I will
see.

Let me know, thanks.

Bob

Better idea. *Remove the Tost wheel and brake and send them to Vintage
Brake (www.vintagebrake.com) in Sonora, California for a rebuild (~
$150). *After three years, my Nimbus 2C still has powerful brakes.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

*I had a scored disc from a off-field landing where sand was forced in
between the disc and pads. After I used the brakes a couple of times
the sand gouged up both the disc and pads, then the brakes didn't work
as well. I also found that when pulling hard on the spoiler handle, my
spoilers were hitting their stops (full open stop) and this bacame the
limiting factor in brake application. *A couple of turns on the
pushrod end that fed the master cylinder, fixed the problem. Make sure
your brake is full on, well before the spoilers hit their stops (if
your brake is on the spoiler handle).
Roger on the Vintage Brake guys,
JJ
JJ

As Dave noted my actuator is a lever on the stick which is wimpy
compared to the spoiler handle. *Dave what do you suggest for a
replacement Bowden cable? *This one looks like a bicycle system and
not even as beefy as a motorcycle version.

Mine is adjusted fine but I might be losing some effectiveness with
cable stretch and/or housing give. *The adjuster is just the cable
clamp nut. *I have also heard the suggestion to replace the plastic
brake fluid line with braided stainless. *Any thoughts about that?

Here's a note Tom sent me after the Great Weedoni improved
mine (this is years ago prior I upgraded to Antares). I don't
have the specifics on the cable and housing, but almost anything is
an improvement over the bicycle cable original. Pay attention
to the routing: no corners, and no obstruction of controls !!

http://www.nadler.com/public/ventus2...ke%20cable.htm

Hope this helps !
Best Regards, Dave "YO electric"

PS: Give a call if you want to discuss...

On Nov 26, 9:03*am, DRN wrote:
On Nov 26, 10:54*am, BravoCharlie
wrote:



On Nov 26, 6:55*am, JJ Sinclair wrote:

On Nov 25, 8:58*pm, bildan wrote:

On Nov 25, 9:33*pm, BravoCharlie
wrote:

Hi Pilots,

I have a V2cxT that has the standard S-H disc brake that no longer
works very well. *I have been through the obvious fixes; pads, new
fluid, bleed, etc. and haven't been able to bring it back up to
original performance which was adequate but not stellar.

I know a number of pilots have complained about this world-wide and S-
H has issued a voluntary TN. *The fix is to basically throw the old
stuff away and replace everything including wheel and tire with the
French-made Beringer system. *Beringer makes performance brake systems
for motorcycles, aircraft, etc. *It is not cheap and probably not an
easy install.

Does any one have first hand knowledge about this fix? *How easy is it
to install and what are the performance gains? *I hate to lay out the
cash without an understanding of how much of an improvement I will
see.

Let me know, thanks.

Bob

Better idea. *Remove the Tost wheel and brake and send them to Vintage
Brake (www.vintagebrake.com) in Sonora, California for a rebuild (~
$150). *After three years, my Nimbus 2C still has powerful brakes..- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

*I had a scored disc from a off-field landing where sand was forced in
between the disc and pads. After I used the brakes a couple of times
the sand gouged up both the disc and pads, then the brakes didn't work
as well. I also found that when pulling hard on the spoiler handle, my
spoilers were hitting their stops (full open stop) and this bacame the
limiting factor in brake application. *A couple of turns on the
pushrod end that fed the master cylinder, fixed the problem. Make sure
your brake is full on, well before the spoilers hit their stops (if
your brake is on the spoiler handle).
Roger on the Vintage Brake guys,
JJ
JJ

As Dave noted my actuator is a lever on the stick which is wimpy
compared to the spoiler handle. *Dave what do you suggest for a
replacement Bowden cable? *This one looks like a bicycle system and
not even as beefy as a motorcycle version.

Mine is adjusted fine but I might be losing some effectiveness with
cable stretch and/or housing give. *The adjuster is just the cable
clamp nut. *I have also heard the suggestion to replace the plastic
brake fluid line with braided stainless. *Any thoughts about that?

Here's a note Tom sent me after the Great Weedoni improved
mine (this is years ago prior I upgraded to Antares). I don't
have the specifics on the cable and housing, but almost anything is
an improvement over the bicycle cable original. Pay attention
to the routing: no corners, and no obstruction of controls !!

http://www.nadler.com/public/ventus2...ke%20cable.htm

Hope this helps !
Best Regards, Dave "YO electric"

PS: Give a call if you want to discuss...

Thanks I will try a few more tweaks before I s-can the whole works.

On Nov 26, 11:12*am, BravoCharlie
wrote:
On Nov 26, 9:03*am, DRN wrote:



On Nov 26, 10:54*am, BravoCharlie
wrote:

On Nov 26, 6:55*am, JJ Sinclair wrote:

On Nov 25, 8:58*pm, bildan wrote:

On Nov 25, 9:33*pm, BravoCharlie
wrote:

Hi Pilots,

I have a V2cxT that has the standard S-H disc brake that no longer
works very well. *I have been through the obvious fixes; pads, new
fluid, bleed, etc. and haven't been able to bring it back up to
original performance which was adequate but not stellar.

I know a number of pilots have complained about this world-wide and S-
H has issued a voluntary TN. *The fix is to basically throw the old
stuff away and replace everything including wheel and tire with the
French-made Beringer system. *Beringer makes performance brake systems
for motorcycles, aircraft, etc. *It is not cheap and probably not an
easy install.

Does any one have first hand knowledge about this fix? *How easy is it
to install and what are the performance gains? *I hate to lay out the
cash without an understanding of how much of an improvement I will
see.

Let me know, thanks.

Bob

Better idea. *Remove the Tost wheel and brake and send them to Vintage
Brake (www.vintagebrake.com) in Sonora, California for a rebuild (~
$150). *After three years, my Nimbus 2C still has powerful brakes.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

*I had a scored disc from a off-field landing where sand was forced in
between the disc and pads. After I used the brakes a couple of times
the sand gouged up both the disc and pads, then the brakes didn't work
as well. I also found that when pulling hard on the spoiler handle, my
spoilers were hitting their stops (full open stop) and this bacame the
limiting factor in brake application. *A couple of turns on the
pushrod end that fed the master cylinder, fixed the problem. Make sure
your brake is full on, well before the spoilers hit their stops (if
your brake is on the spoiler handle).
Roger on the Vintage Brake guys,
JJ
JJ

As Dave noted my actuator is a lever on the stick which is wimpy
compared to the spoiler handle. *Dave what do you suggest for a
replacement Bowden cable? *This one looks like a bicycle system and
not even as beefy as a motorcycle version.

Mine is adjusted fine but I might be losing some effectiveness with
cable stretch and/or housing give. *The adjuster is just the cable
clamp nut. *I have also heard the suggestion to replace the plastic
brake fluid line with braided stainless. *Any thoughts about that?

Here's a note Tom sent me after the Great Weedoni improved
mine (this is years ago prior I upgraded to Antares). I don't
have the specifics on the cable and housing, but almost anything is
an improvement over the bicycle cable original. Pay attention
to the routing: no corners, and no obstruction of controls !!

http://www.nadler.com/public/ventus2...ke%20cable.htm

Hope this helps !
Best Regards, Dave "YO electric"

PS: Give a call if you want to discuss...

Thanks I will try a few more tweaks before I s-can the whole works.

Let me know if you want more info on the Beringer system
and feel free to call with any questions about either...

Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving,
Best Regards, Dave "YO electric"

On Nov 26, 9:03*am, DRN wrote:

http://www.nadler.com/public/ventus2...ke%20cable.htm


Man that's ugly!

Why would anyone ruin a great hydraulic disc brake by actuating the
master cylinder with a bicycle cable?

Andy

On Nov 26, 11:32*am, Andy wrote:
http://www.nadler.com/public/ventus2...ke%20cable.htm

Man that's ugly!

Why would anyone ruin a great hydraulic disc brake by actuating the
master cylinder with a bicycle cable?

Andy

That is a very good question.

Antares uses a direct mechanical connection from spoiler
pushrod to master-cylinder actuation lever, no Bowden cable.

A Bowden cable is a SPRING, and bicycle-grade is really
silly in these applications (especially 8 foot long with a
Tost "wheel brake").

I believe SH has upgraded new production to use Beringer parts;
hopefully they have stopped doing this on the actuation side...

See ya, Dave "YO electric"

DRN wrote:
On Nov 26, 11:32 am, Andy wrote:
http://www.nadler.com/public/ventus2...ke%20cable.htm
Man that's ugly!

Why would anyone ruin a great hydraulic disc brake by actuating the
master cylinder with a bicycle cable?

Andy

That is a very good question.

Antares uses a direct mechanical connection from spoiler
pushrod to master-cylinder actuation lever, no Bowden cable.

A Bowden cable is a SPRING, and bicycle-grade is really
silly in these applications (especially 8 foot long with a
Tost "wheel brake").

I believe SH has upgraded new production to use Beringer parts;
hopefully they have stopped doing this on the actuation side...

See ya, Dave "YO electric"


No, still using the bicycle cable with the Beringer system. See the
installation instructions he

http://schempp-hirth.com/fileadmin/t...49-33-2444.pdf

On Nov 26, 12:27*pm, Greg Arnold wrote:
DRN wrote:
On Nov 26, 11:32 am, Andy wrote:
http://www.nadler.com/public/ventus2...ke%20cable.htm
Man that's ugly!

Why would anyone ruin a great hydraulic disc brake by actuating the
master cylinder with a bicycle cable?

Andy

That is a very good question.

Antares uses a direct mechanical connection from spoiler
pushrod to master-cylinder actuation lever, no Bowden cable.

A Bowden cable is a SPRING, and bicycle-grade is really
silly in these applications (especially 8 foot long with a
Tost "wheel brake").

I believe SH has upgraded new production to use Beringer parts;
hopefully they have stopped doing this on the actuation side...

See ya, Dave "YO electric"

No, still using the bicycle cable with the Beringer system. *See the
installation instructions he

http://schempp-hirth.com/fileadmin/t...49-33-2444.pdf

Aaarggg - It does work adequately with a beefier Bowden cable...

On Nov 26, 10:27*am, Greg Arnold wrote:
DRN wrote:
On Nov 26, 11:32 am, Andy wrote:
http://www.nadler.com/public/ventus2...ke%20cable.htm
Man that's ugly!

Why would anyone ruin a great hydraulic disc brake by actuating the
master cylinder with a bicycle cable?

Andy

That is a very good question.

Antares uses a direct mechanical connection from spoiler
pushrod to master-cylinder actuation lever, no Bowden cable.

A Bowden cable is a SPRING, and bicycle-grade is really
silly in these applications (especially 8 foot long with a
Tost "wheel brake").

I believe SH has upgraded new production to use Beringer parts;
hopefully they have stopped doing this on the actuation side...

See ya, Dave "YO electric"

No, still using the bicycle cable with the Beringer system. *See the
installation instructions he

http://schempp-hirth.com/fileadmin/t...9-33-2444.pdf- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -